Feeling Little in Big Canyon

Beautiful stretch deep within Big Canyon

This last weekend satisfied a desire to visit a place that's been on my to-do list and on my mind for years! It sits up in a region just north of Gallina, NM, a region of the state that is loaded with slot canyons, with most of them being technical. The goal: Big Canyon Slot.

Allie & Patrick at one of the early alabaster downclimbs

While most of the slot canyons in New Mexico are relatively short, this canyon is special in that is is roughly 3 miles from its beginning up on French Mesa to its exit down along the Rio Gallina. It is not a genuine slot for that entire length, but it has many slot sections, and the best is saved for last, becoming one of the most beautiful slots I've seen in this state in its last half mile.

Narrow walls of alabaster

For this adventure, I enlisted the partnership of my friend Allie, who in turn invited another friend, Patrick. These two were so invaluable to making the day such a fun experience! Aside from being excellent company, the technical skills and knowledge of our collective group was very comforting.

Peering over the edge of our first rappel, note all the elk tracks in the mud

We got a really early start, leaving Albuquerque at 5 am. We reached our parking area off of a jeep road high on French Mesa just after 7:30 am. We quickly departed, heading downhill and into a favorable looking drainage. The drainage quickly deepened, cutting into a thick layer of alabaster which towered over us higher than any alabaster canyon I'd been in prior to this one. It was a rather overgrown canyon at this point, which was slightly unexpected. Come to turn out, we had taken the wrong branch into the main canyon, which was very obvious once we connected.

Patrick heading down the rappel

The main canyon was much more open! The alabaster walls were very sheer and roughly 100 feet thick in some areas! It was mostly a narrow box, though it would become quite thin in a few places.
We took care on the alabaster downclimbing, as this stuff is not nearly as solid as you'd like it to be. But it was more than manageable and provided fun little challenges.

Allie on rappel

We quickly came to the first rappel, which was a little over 45 feet down into some unavoidable mud. There were two existing lengths of webbing attached to two different trees and joined by a large rapide. After inspecting the webbing and feeling confident in its strength, we harnessed up and one by one went over the edge. The smooth sandstone wall just below the grey-rock of the lip was incredibly aesthetic! We were able to land in mud a little more solid off to the side, avoiding the oatmeal mud directly beneath the lip. You could scramble around this rappel and deposit yourself farther down in the canyon via a game trail, but come on, it's way more fun to go down on a rope!

Patrick within the alabaster canyon

After the rappel, we took off our harnesses and continued heading down canyon, passing two tributaries worthy of exploration on our right. Unfortunately weather moved in later and we were unable to explore those canyons today.

The canyon remained sandstone for a short distance before going back to alabaster. There was one downclimb that proved passable with some chimney maneuvers. I found a handline beneath the overhang just left of the downclimb amid the jumbled boulders, but it appears that debris washed down in a flash flood and rendered the handline unusable.

Allie and Patrick at the toughest alabaster downclimb. Handline visible in the back of the dark "cave"

Another downclimb out of the alabaster layer and down into the Entrada Sandstone. While the alabaster canyons were beautiful, the artistic qualities of the water carved sandstone are just indescribably beautiful. Once in the sandstone, the quantity of obstacles quickly increased.

Transitioning from alabaster canyon to sandstone

Patrick providing some perspective

Allie getting ready to stem over one of the deeper mudholes

The first major obstacle was a 12 foot drop that is unable to be downclimbed. At the bottom was a pit of mud. A previously used handline was still present, though I was able to pull it right out of its constriction. I secured the handline to some of my own cordelette on a jammed log. We downclimbed the loops on the handline into the mud and entered a new narrow passage that had tons of mudholes and small/shallow pools.

Handline descending the 12 foot drop

The first waterhole was the largest...and most people who know me know I can be rather hydrophobic while hiking, similar to a cat. I'll get wet if I HAVE to, but will avoid it if it's at all possible. So for this particular obstacle (after splashing mud in a futile/naive effort to leave stepping stones), I stemmed out as far as I could go and then made the jump to the other side, one foot sinking in mud and the rest of me getting splashed here and there. But the result? I was mostly dry!

Looking upstream from one of the small pools below the drop

Allie working over the one of the last pools in the corridor via balance

Lots of stemming practice in here!

Allie decided to go with the flow, keep things simple, and just wade through the water, which was probably knee deep. From here, there were two more large puddles, but I was able to get over one with stemming and the other by walking down a log that lay over the water. Patrick was my partner in keeping dry, and Allie gave up trying to stay dry if the effort to do so wasn't worth it.

Patrick climbing around one of the larger pools

After a little more descending, a few more drops, and one narrow passage deemed worthy of the name "The Bog" (the water in this one unexpectedly claimed Patrick),  we arrived at the major crux of the canyon. A 30 foot rappel that dove straight through the sandstone and deposited us into the most consistently narrow and the deepest part of the canyon. Allie and Patrick rappelled down one strand, and I downclimbed on butterfly knots on another strand.

The drop into the sweet spot!

Allie paying the entrance fee to the best part of the canyon

Down here, the canyon floor was wider than the walls above you in some places. It was beautiful as a dream, and I couldn't help but try to envision the years of water weathering that had taken place to sculpt this masterpiece.

It's quite different down here :)

One of the wider portions in the bottom

Looking upstream

Allie providing some perspective

Now THIS is a great canyon!

 Shortly beyond the rappel, you pass through a section that makes the cover of Doug Scott's "New Mexico Slot Canyons" book, which I recommend if these interest you. I've admired the photos of this spot for years, but the feeling of being within these passages was just one I wasn't quite prepared for. I felt dwarfed within the walls, a feeling I have grown to appreciate. Down here in the lower portions of the canyon, the walls tower almost 300 feet above you!

Spectacular passage where the bottom is much wider than the walls above

Much more sheer walls behind Patrick!

The final crux of the canyon is another mudhole beneath a 10 foot drop with no easy way down. We scrambled around this mudhole and I found a sketchy but do-able downclimb to reenter the bottom of the canyon shortly past this. Allie and Patrick didn't feel okay with doing the scramble, so I continued the short distance to the bottom of the canyon alone, privy to the 25' chockstone wedged in high above you just a few corners and turns away from the scramble.

Allie scrambling around more mud

Passage below the final crux

Instead of going all the way to the Rio Gallina, I decided to turn around when the canyon began to widen and become more lush again. The best of it was behind me now, and it was time to reascend.

Massive chockstone

We had left the 30 foot rope and after Allie and Patrick ascended the rope via a combination of ascending devices and hitches, I climbed back up the butterfly knots. Getting back through the wet and muddy corridor below the 12 foot drop proved much easier from this direction, and just as I was untying the knot on my cordellette, the rain drops started to fall. It wasn't long before the rain picked up and I noticed little tiny hail pebbles mixed in. Luckily, it was short lived, and though the flash flood risk is low for this canyon due to the small floodplain, we exited the canyon rather quickly in order to minimize the risk of being caught unexpectedly.

Patrick and Allie getting ready to reascend

The rest of the hike was relatively uneventful, just trudging (though that sounds more negative than it was) uphill through the beautiful and mostly open forest. The cracking thunder was like a healing symphony to my ears, keeping my simultaneous ecstasy and bliss at rather high levels.

It was a very successful day, and even more fun than I had anticipated! Aside from the magnificence and grandeur of the canyon, I was lucky to have such go-getter partners who never allowed a dull moment. I had climbed with both Allie and Patrick prior to this, but it was my first hike and adventure with either of them, and it certainly won't be the last.

I have left out many logistical details. If you have noticed in the last few posts, I have shifted a bit from my logistical and informative descriptions to a more romanticized and personal descriptive approach. For anyone who reads these, I'd appreciate input on this.
But lastly, as I always say...don't just take my word on how amazing this canyon is. Grab some gear, arm yourself with the knowledge, and get out and find out for yourself!

Hidden Gems of Northern New Mexico (Part Two: Waterfall Haven)

Part two of exploration in northern New Mexico. This time, seeking a region in the northern Nacimiento Mountains that is incredibly dense with waterfalls! The Rito Resumidero, Rio Puerco, and Rito Redondo all cut their way steeply down canyons here, pouring over a precipice on more than one occasion.

Peering east from an overlook above Resumidero Box

After my exploration of Cañon de Coloures, I drove south across the highway into the Nacimiento Mountains. The impending rains were rather forgiving and allowed me to continue exploration. I drove past the Resumidero Campground, and although I had never heard of it, I seemed to be the only one! The campground was incredibly busy and full of RV's, trucks, ATV's, moms, dads, children, etc.

Top tier of Resumidero Box Fals

I drove past the campground until I crossed the Rito Resumidero. Shortly after, I parked and found an overlook which peered down to Resumidero Box Falls, a three tiered waterfall that drops down about 70 feet. The top tier drops through a small hole in the rock into a lovely looking pool!

Top two tiers of Resumidero Box Falls

I continued down the forest road to a pulloff I had anticipated, parked next to a large family camping, and made my way downhill. I knew where I was heading, but some trails made it even easier to find. I ended up at the edge of a deep box canyon that echoed with the roar of falling water. Venturing out to the edge produced my first view of the two-tiered waterfall that fed down to the large and photogenic Lichen Falls below.

Beautiful flowers right off the road along the Rito Redondo

Lichen Falls was my primary reason for visiting this area. A sixty footer that drops into the deep and lush gorge down rock that is bright green with moss and lichen, it is a proud waterfall that should be a destination on more peoples' radar! This is probably the Rio Puerco at its most exciting point. A steep "trail" from the rim heads straight down to the base of the falls. The setting is quite dramatic with the walls of the gorge rising above you on three sides.

Loud and proud Lichen Falls

If you head downstream, you intersect the Resumidero Gorge, which is home to Echo Falls, a 50 foot waterfall in another box. I attempted to head downstream and quickly came across a 20 foot waterfall. There was no way to downclimb the waterfall safely, so I attempted to traverse a game trail on the side of the canyon and then drop down below the waterfall. However, it was frighteningly loose and exposed to an ankle breaker landing and I felt it best to not risk that while out there alone.

This was the end of exploration for this weekend, but it was quite fruitful!! Lichen Falls quickly rose to become one of my favorite waterfalls in the state, right behind Brazos Falls during snowmelt. Another visit will happen soon to visit Echo Falls, Double Box Falls, Vivian Falls, and Rio Puerco Falls. But may the pictures of Lichen Falls serve as inspiration to you all!

View looking east from the rim, with Cerro Pedernal off in the distance

As beautiful as it is in photos, it is even better in person. Doug Scott's website again is a very valuable resource to this area. But don't just take my word for it, get out and see for yourself!

Hidden Gems of Northern New Mexico (Part One: Cañon de Coloures)

I've begun writing more frequently over the past couple months. As a result of separating from social media and dealing with personal crises, I feel the desire...no, the need to express my love for these places I visit and share the experiences with others. Who better than folks willingly visiting a hiking blog?
 

Parking Spot

Now, onto the purpose! Two weeks ago, I devised a plan to visit two special and relatively unknown destinations in northern New Mexico. A new, and trustworthy (FINALLY!), vehicle has made its way into my life and this weekend was to test its reliability and durability. It's also been an excruciatingly long period of time since I've had the opportunity to do some solo exploring!

It's not an adventure without coming across bones

I hopped into my new vehicle and was on the road by 6am, heading north on Highway 550. The stretch of 550 between Bernalillo and Cuba is so lovely in the mornings, as the early sun highlights the white cliffs of White Mesa and the orange soft sandstone mesas just south of the Cabezon turnoff and the various colors and stones and sediments on the east side of La Ventana Mesa to the north.

Elk tracks in the constant mud

From Cuba I headed northward for the first time, heading through the community of Regina and toward the town of Gallina. This region is so resplendent, with many unique formations and colors! The drive alongside the San Juan Badlands was a good introduction, but the simultaneous imposition of the mesas and openness between them west of Gallina was awe-inspiring. I may be easy to please, but I believe most folks will appreciate the beauty that resonates here.

Colorful cliffs on the other side of Dry Lake

First stop of the day? A little known slot canyon called Cañon de Coloures.

Teasing stretch, cutting through soft rock

This canyon starts on the far west side of French Mesa and drains to the south, cutting through various sandstone layers and creating some beautiful slot sections! After parking off a 4WD road near Dry Lake, I dropped straight into the drainage. Aside from some hoodoos across the canyon, some bones in the bottom of the wash, and lots of elk tracks, it was a relatively uneventful upper canyon. The open forest was beautiful and the canyon kept teasing me in regards to whether it was going to close in or not.

Looking down the first downclimb

Downclimb from below, water hidden

Wedged in tree

After some time, I came to the first obstacle, a short drop of maybe 8 feet down a chute with water at the bottom. After some contemplation, I went ahead and tried to downclimb it and stay dry. I chimneyed (is that a word?) my way down the chute and found stable footing on a log. I brought my pack down and continued. There were several spots where it narrowed and mud and water prevailed on the floor. Fortunately, my love for stemming came in handy and I was able to stay dry. Another short drop into a shallow pothole led to a short stretch of shallow but very narrow canyon that was such fun to traverse!

Boxy stretch

Downclimb into narrower section

Hallway ahead

Downstream from that, I reached a drop that was maybe 15 feet. It looked tricky, but I felt it was downclimbable. I left my pack at the top in case I would have to reclimb it, and made my way down the flaring chimney on the right side of the chockstone at the top, slowly squirming my way down. I hiked a little farther past this to see if I could find another escape route before I went to grab the pack, and I quickly found one.

Log wedge in a hallway

10-15 foot downclimb

Darker narrows lie ahead

Best stretch of narrows in the canyon

While not continuous, the slot portions of this canyon just kept delivering and providing such fun downclimbing, stemming, and more! Eventually a came to a drop of roughly 20 feet that wasn't downclimbable, one of two rappels in the canyon. Since I was alone, I circumnavigated this by climbing up and going right down canyon. Once I dropped back into the canyon, I hiked back "upstream" to see what I missed. It was a short stretch of deep and narrow beauty!

Looking down while navigating around rappel

Hiking back upstream

Looking at the rappel into the mud. Deepest part of the canyon

Really quickly while hiking down canyon, I came to the next rappel, a 30 foot drop from a limestone rim back into sandstone. It was here that I decided to end this short venture, as I was near the end of the canyon and clouds were starting to build. In order to beat the likely monsoonal storms expected around noon, I started up to gain the ridge and start heading back to the car, mostly following game trails that contoured along the hillside.

Peering over the final 30 ft. rappel

My words fail to justify the beauty of this region. Perhaps I'm just a bit rusty when it comes to writing, or perhaps that is a testimony to how beautiful this area truly is. This region is home to nearly a dozen known slot canyons, and this was my opener to it.

Looking over toward the middle fork, another technical adventure

The purple hoodoos that mark the end of the canyons

If you have interest in exploring these, Doug Scott's website is an invaluable resource! His maps and descriptions are so helpful. But be warned, most of these canyons are technical, requiring rappels.

So as always, don't just take my word for any of this. Get out and experience it for yourself!