Thursday, August 2, 2018

Hidden Gems of Northern New Mexico (Part Two: Waterfall Haven)

Part two of exploration in northern New Mexico. This time, seeking a region in the northern Nacimiento Mountains that is incredibly dense with waterfalls! The Rito Resumidero, Rio Puerco, and Rito Redondo all cut their way steeply down canyons here, pouring over a precipice on more than one occasion.
Peering east from an overlook above Resumidero Box

After my exploration of Cañon de Coloures, I drove south across the highway into the Nacimiento Mountains. The impending rains were rather forgiving and allowed me to continue exploration. I drove past the Resumidero Campground, and although I had never heard of it, I seemed to be the only one! The campground was incredibly busy and full of RV's, trucks, ATV's, moms, dads, children, etc.
Top tier of Resumidero Box Fals

I drove past the campground until I crossed the Rito Resumidero. Shortly after, I parked and found an overlook which peered down to Resumidero Box Falls, a three tiered waterfall that drops down about 70 feet. The top tier drops through a small hole in the rock into a lovely looking pool!
Top two tiers of Resumidero Box Falls

I continued down the forest road to a pulloff I had anticipated, parked next to a large family camping, and made my way downhill. I knew where I was heading, but some trails made it even easier to find. I ended up at the edge of a deep box canyon that echoed with the roar of falling water. Venturing out to the edge produced my first view of the two-tiered waterfall that fed down to the large and photogenic Lichen Falls below.
Beautiful flowers right off the road along the Rito Redondo

Lichen Falls was my primary reason for visiting this area. A sixty footer that drops into the deep and lush gorge down rock that is bright green with moss and lichen, it is a proud waterfall that should be a destination on more peoples' radar! This is probably the Rio Puerco at its most exciting point. A steep "trail" from the rim heads straight down to the base of the falls. The setting is quite dramatic with the walls of the gorge rising above you on three sides.
Loud and proud Lichen Falls

If you head downstream, you intersect the Resumidero Gorge, which is home to Echo Falls, a 50 foot waterfall in another box. I attempted to head downstream and quickly came across a 20 foot waterfall. There was no way to downclimb the waterfall safely, so I attempted to traverse a game trail on the side of the canyon and then drop down below the waterfall. However, it was frighteningly loose and exposed to an ankle breaker landing and I felt it best to not risk that while out there alone.

This was the end of exploration for this weekend, but it was quite fruitful!! Lichen Falls quickly rose to become one of my favorite waterfalls in the state, right behind Brazos Falls during snowmelt. Another visit will happen soon to visit Echo Falls, Double Box Falls, Vivian Falls, and Rio Puerco Falls. But may the pictures of Lichen Falls serve as inspiration to you all!
View looking east from the rim, with Cerro Pedernal off in the distance

As beautiful as it is in photos, it is even better in person. Doug Scott's website again is a very valuable resource to this area. But don't just take my word for it, get out and see for yourself!

Hidden Gems of Northern New Mexico (Part One: Cañon de Coloures)

I've begun writing more frequently over the past couple months. As a result of separating from social media and dealing with personal crises, I feel the desire...no, the need to express my love for these places I visit and share the experiences with others. Who better than folks willingly visiting a hiking blog?
 
Parking Spot

Now, onto the purpose! Two weeks ago, I devised a plan to visit two special and relatively unknown destinations in northern New Mexico. A new, and trustworthy (FINALLY!), vehicle has made its way into my life and this weekend was to test its reliability and durability. It's also been an excruciatingly long period of time since I've had the opportunity to do some solo exploring!
It's not an adventure without coming across bones

I hopped into my new vehicle and was on the road by 6am, heading north on Highway 550. The stretch of 550 between Bernalillo and Cuba is so lovely in the mornings, as the early sun highlights the white cliffs of White Mesa and the orange soft sandstone mesas just south of the Cabezon turnoff and the various colors and stones and sediments on the east side of La Ventana Mesa to the north.
Elk tracks in the constant mud
From Cuba I headed northward for the first time, heading through the community of Regina and toward the town of Gallina. This region is so resplendent, with many unique formations and colors! The drive alongside the San Juan Badlands was a good introduction, but the simultaneous imposition of the mesas and openness between them west of Gallina was awe-inspiring. I may be easy to please, but I believe most folks will appreciate the beauty that resonates here.
Colorful cliffs on the other side of Dry Lake
First stop of the day? A little known slot canyon called Cañon de Coloures.

Teasing stretch, cutting through soft rock

This canyon starts on the far west side of French Mesa and drains to the south, cutting through various sandstone layers and creating some beautiful slot sections! After parking off a 4WD road near Dry Lake, I dropped straight into the drainage. Aside from some hoodoos across the canyon, some bones in the bottom of the wash, and lots of elk tracks, it was a relatively uneventful upper canyon. The open forest was beautiful and the canyon kept teasing me in regards to whether it was going to close in or not.
Looking down the first downclimb

Downclimb from below, water hidden
Wedged in tree
After some time, I came to the first obstacle, a short drop of maybe 8 feet down a chute with water at the bottom. After some contemplation, I went ahead and tried to downclimb it and stay dry. I chimneyed (is that a word?) my way down the chute and found stable footing on a log. I brought my pack down and continued. There were several spots where it narrowed and mud and water prevailed on the floor. Fortunately, my love for stemming came in handy and I was able to stay dry. Another short drop into a shallow pothole led to a short stretch of shallow but very narrow canyon that was such fun to traverse!
Boxy stretch

Downclimb into narrower section

Hallway ahead

Downstream from that, I reached a drop that was maybe 15 feet. It looked tricky, but I felt it was downclimbable. I left my pack at the top in case I would have to reclimb it, and made my way down the flaring chimney on the right side of the chockstone at the top, slowly squirming my way down. I hiked a little farther past this to see if I could find another escape route before I went to grab the pack, and I quickly found one.
Log wedge in a hallway

10-15 foot downclimb

Darker narrows lie ahead
Best stretch of narrows in the canyon
While not continuous, the slot portions of this canyon just kept delivering and providing such fun downclimbing, stemming, and more! Eventually a came to a drop of roughly 20 feet that wasn't downclimbable, one of two rappels in the canyon. Since I was alone, I circumnavigated this by climbing up and going right down canyon. Once I dropped back into the canyon, I hiked back "upstream" to see what I missed. It was a short stretch of deep and narrow beauty!
Looking down while navigating around rappel

Hiking back upstream

Looking at the rappel into the mud. Deepest part of the canyon

Really quickly while hiking down canyon, I came to the next rappel, a 30 foot drop from a limestone rim back into sandstone. It was here that I decided to end this short venture, as I was near the end of the canyon and clouds were starting to build. In order to beat the likely monsoonal storms expected around noon, I started up to gain the ridge and start heading back to the car, mostly following game trails that contoured along the hillside.
Peering over the final 30 ft. rappel

My words fail to justify the beauty of this region. Perhaps I'm just a bit rusty when it comes to writing, or perhaps that is a testimony to how beautiful this area truly is. This region is home to nearly a dozen known slot canyons, and this was my opener to it.
Looking over toward the middle fork, another technical adventure

The purple hoodoos that mark the end of the canyons

If you have interest in exploring these, Doug Scott's website is an invaluable resource! His maps and descriptions are so helpful. But be warned, most of these canyons are technical, requiring rappels.

So as always, don't just take my word for any of this. Get out and experience it for yourself!


Saturday, July 23, 2016

Alpine Escape to Santa Fe Baldy

View of Lake Katherine from just north of the summit proper
Feel like getting a small taste of Colorado here in New Mexico? High altitudes, alpine lakes, marmots, hiking above timberline, and lots of water make this a very different area from where I'm used to going! Just to the east/northeast of Santa Fe,NM lies the Pecos Wilderness, which is home to some of the most beautiful backcountry and alpine terrain that I have ever hiked in the state. I recommend ANY of the hikes in this area to anyone looking to get out. If you've mostly just hiked in the Sandias or any of the desert areas around Albuquerque, this will be a big change. At ~15 miles round trip, this is one for the folks a bit more in shape. I do warn that you REALLY do want to make sure you are in shape for this as well as prepared.
One of the first views of Santa Fe Baldy along the Winsor Trail
To get to the trailhead for this adventure, you're going to make your way to the Santa Fe Ski Basin. From Albuquerque, you'll take I-25 North to Santa Fe. You'll exit either on St. Francis Road or Old Pecos Road. I haven't taken the Old Pecos Road route, but on a map it looks like the most straightforward way, as there is a lot of easy-to-miss turns via the St. Francis route. Either way, you're going to go into Santa Fe for a bit on said road until it runs into NM 475. Follow the signs to make sure you stay on NM 475 (that is where the easy-to-miss turns come in), and once you start driving into the hills you are good to go. Follow that road all the way to where it ends up at the top of the mountain. Park in any of the huge parking areas at the Santa Fe Ski Basin, and you're there!
That morning light through the trees!
So this trail connects three trail really. Winsor, Skyline, and the spur going up to the Santa Fe Baldy. This makes for either a great overnight camping trip, or an exhausting albeit worthwhile dayhike. I am a big fan of long dayhikes, so I did just that. I started on the trail at just after 7am, but I came across a couple of gentlemen on the trail who started just after 3!
Rio Nambe
The Winsor Trail is where the hike begins. The trailhead for this is on the east/northeast corner of the parking area. Right away you walk into beautiful, dense forest and immediately cross and follow the Rio Medio. For the first mile, the trail switchbacks up and up out of the ski basin until arriving at a saddle where you reach the boundary for the Pecos Wilderness. This is a gorgeous open area that I usually stop for a drink at.
Life can be found everywhere
From the boundary, you stay on the Winsor Trail and it starts to wind around on the north facing slopes. At just beyond 2 miles, you'll reach the Rio Nambe, and the turnoff for Nambe Lake. Nambe Lake is a worthwhile hike itself, and I'm sure will get a post of its own some day. The Rio Nambe can be quite impressive depending on the time of the year, but luckily the little bridge that crosses it holds up quite while even when the flow is heavy and powerful.

After crossing the Rio Nambe, the trail follows the contour of the north-facing slopes for roughly a mile or so before the slopes start to level out, you're hiking along another stream, and then it starts to lift up. It's very gentle hiking most of the way, and you get beautiful views and peeks of Santa Fe Baldy throughout the way. It looks so distant in the beginning, but slowly gets closer and closer.
One of the many great views of SF Baldy
Lots of wildflowers along the trail in summer!
Rocky Mountain Columbines...my favorite.

One of the few stream crossings


After the final stream crossing, the trail switchbacks up and out of little "valley" and nears the first trail intersection. At around 5 miles you reach a big beautiful meadow! At this meadow is the intersection with the Skyline Trail, which is what you'll be taking north from here. The meadow provides many opportunities for shade to sit and relax or break and eat. On my way down I sat my pack on the ground here, lay my head back on it for a while, and closed my eyes to just hear the breeze.

Just east of the intersection, perfect spot to set up camp!
Another view of the Great Meadow
Winsor Trail continues east, but this hike catches the Skyline Trail and starts heading north. The trail goes straight towards the ridge for a bit before switchbacks appear to make the upward ascent a little easier. Just before it reaches the ridge, the trees start to thin out, and before you know it, you're hiking above timberline! At the crest of the ridge, there is a trail intersection. If you keep going east/northeast (straight) along the trail, you'll be heading to Lake Katherine. For the Baldy, you will turn left at the intersection, following the lesser used, but still obvious trail. From here it becomes quite taxing!
Looking south at Penitente and Lake Peaks from above timberline
Looking east into the vast expanse of Pecos Wilderness on the way up the ridge
The view of Santa Fe Baldy as you near the ridge
From here it is straight forward. You just follow the trail along the ridge up and up...and then up some more. You gain more than a thousand feet in elevation from the intersection to the summit, and it feels like it. About halfway up the ridge, you finally hit the 12,000 foot mark. There is no sign to mark it, but it is just a nice waypoint to notice if you have an instrument like a GPS that will measure your altitude. The views get better, and you're just hiking around small boulders and lots of open, green grass on the way up. It gets quite steep, but just keep pushing.
On the way up the lower part of the ridge
This little fellow didn't mind me getting too close
The right-most peak is the actual summit. This view shows you're almost done with the worst of it!
Eventually the trail starts to level out, and it becomes such a pleasant stroll along alpine, boulder-strewn meadows. I did this hike in July, and there were still snow drifts on the eastern side of the ridge up here. The summit is marked by a large pile of rocks. Once you make it here, you are roughly 12,600 feet in elevation! And this is where you can generally find people to be sitting, admiring the views in all directions. And what views they are! Out west are views of a huge burn scar (from what fire and when I do not know), out east are gorgeous views of the rolling Pecos Wilderness, down south are views of Lake Peak and Penitente Peak, and to the north you get wonderful views of Redondo Peak, East Pecos Baldy, and the Truchas peaks.
The general feel of the trail up top
The summit in sight!
Views of a massive burn scar
Looking at the ridge that was just ascended
If you go just to the north of the summit. There is a boulder-strewn overlook that provides incredible views of Lake Katherine below! Following this small ridge down just a little bit makes for a nice place to sit and take a break. It was near this area that I saw a couple marmots. Their squeaks are much easier to hear than they are to see usually. I advise taking as much time as you like to enjoy the views here and at the summit before turning back. It is such a wonderful place to just be, and enjoying it fully is the least you can do for yourself after the journey to get here.
Marmot calling out
View of Lake Katherine, with the Truchas Peaks in the distant left

After all the time spent soaking in all the beauty, and probably letting your heart rate calm and lungs relax, you'll take the same way back down as you did up. I won't post directions or anything, as you will know it once you've made it up here. The trek back may not be as exciting as the way up, but it is still a very enjoyable and pleasant hike.
View of Lake Katherine a little farther north on the ridge
Bring plenty of water (a filter if you have one), lots of calorie-packed foods, and all the other essentials, and go place yourself out in this beautiful part of the state. It is worth the drive, it is worth the many miles on foot, and it is worth the shortness of breath near the top. This is honestly one of my favorite hikes I've ever done, and most of the people I encountered along it seemed to be enjoying it just as much! I generally favor solitude, which is not to be found much along this area on weekends, but the people did not detract from the beauty here whatsoever. So go on, and just as always...don't take my word for it, find out for yourself!!!
Happy Trails :)